3. Wait patiently in your room for further instructions.
If you’re doing an Australian Covid-19 hotel quarantine, the answer is “3”. That was my Monday evening: day four of my military-guarded, two-week stay of $ 190 a night in what is perhaps the only five-star hotel in the world that doesn’t change sheets, clean the room … or even rent you leave during one Fire alarms.
But maybe I should start at the beginning five weeks ago.
It was at this point that my 68 year old mother received the call to go to St. Vincent’s Hospital in Sydney for a double lung transplant. For early-stage lung cancer and a lung capacity of 28 percent, her operation was essential. So I was there for recovery.
The successful operation set in motion the tourist equivalent of Hell. There was a multi-day ticket search, negotiations with foreign governments about special transit agreements, a vaccination at 3 a.m., trials, 68 hours of flight and transit, more swabs, wipes, bumps and thumbprints than I would like to imagine, and now 14 nights in one Prison hotel.
If you want to visit an Icelandic volcano, take the Trans-Siberian Express, or go on a safari in Africa, you may be luckier. But if you’re looking to travel to a country where Covid-19 is under control, you can expect something like what I’m about to describe, and possibly worse. There is a 21-day hotel quarantine in Hong Kong. In New Zealand there is a waiting list that you can join.Online portal of the Managed Isolation Allocation System. “
Stress for the whole family
You are guaranteed not to get: a relaxing vacation.
The uneven introduction of vaccines in the world collides with the uneven Covid-19 control systems in the world. Citizens of countries with widespread vaccination campaigns – including the United States, the United Kingdom, Israel, and the United Arab Emirates – are desperate to take a summer vacation and resume business as usual. But there is no such thing as normal when it comes to traveling across borders: Around a third of the countries remain completely closed to visitors.
It is true that there is a lot of talk about “vaccination records” – and those The World Health Organization has issued preliminary guidelines how to roll them out – for now Iceland, Belize, Seychelles, Lebanon and Georgia are the only countries that accept vaccination certificates from Americans as a reason to skip the quarantine. Most countries instead rely on draconian, expensive and labor intensive systems to manage their visitors.
To the Those looking to enter Australia start the problems with a government arrival cap. In Down Under, only 6,000 people per week are allowed with a maximum of 30 passengers per aircraft. Accordingly, international scheduled flights will be cut by 97 percent, and Qantas, the national airline, will not offer any flights at all.
As a result, entry into Australia is only possible with a business or first class ticket: in the USA, these start at 11,000 US dollars for a one-way trip. One year after the pandemic, 36,000 Australians are still stranded overseas, despite the registration as wanting to return home.
I had to hack the system to find a cheaper rate.
My second passport – from Belgium – didn’t help: Belgium doesn’t even let its citizens leave Belgium. After pursuing options via Fiji and Japan, I settled on an economy ticket that took me from New York to Detroit to Seoul and eventually Singapore, which unlike other countries still has daily flights to Australia. From Singapore I would fly Business Class to Sydney for a manageable total cost of US $ 4,700: still prohibitively expensive for many.
There is no easy way to swap planes at Singapore Changi Airport during Covid. Of the few airlines that are allowed to handle transfer passengers today, none of them allow you to fly economy on the first leg and on the second leg of a single ticket for business purposes. Exchanges between airlines within the airport are also prohibited.
This is important because the alternative – booking separate tickets with the same airline – is to have your passport stamped, collect your luggage, and then double-check: actions that would normally trigger entering a 14-day quarantine.
My savior was [email protected], a new “Business Exchange Bubble Facility” About 3 miles from the airport, which was created for short-term business travelers to hold meetings in Singapore without the need for quarantine on arrival.
The facility consists of several wings of prefabricated hotel rooms, mini-gyms in shipping containers, and meeting rooms – built in 2021 in a floodlit congress hall. It starts at $ 400 per night and guests must also pay $ 120 for the Covid-19 test upon arrival. All you need is a credit card and a business reason to be there: luckily, Asia’s premier Security Summit and World Economic Forum will be held in Singapore in the coming months.
I tried logging in online but the system was down every time for three days. Eventually my application was processed manually over the phone and I was soon armed with a “Safe Travel Pass” letter of approval from the Singapore authorities.
I thought I was hired and I was wrong.
When New York State opened vaccinations for frontline health workers, I qualified as a freshly baked primary nurse. Getting the vaccine was a breeze: it would protect my mother and potentially help me with disputes with border officials during my trip.
I received my first batch at 3 a.m. in a Manhattan urban building 15 days before my trip to Australia, until I found out I was going to be in Australia for the second batch: Moderna’s doses are offered four weeks apart instead of two.
It was a moot point: the governments of every country I have traveled through are only interested in negative test results.
I didn’t take a hurdle that I couldn’t trip over on this trip, so of course I almost hit the most important barrier: testing.
Seoul, Singapore, swabs and claws
Each country has slightly different rules and sometimes parallel rules for citizens and visitors. This created confusion about when to start the test clock. For example, Singapore requires a negative PCR test within 72 hours of departure. But where are you leaving: from home or from your last flight?
Since the Singapore entry permit was tied to my flight from Seoul to Singapore (and not my first flight from Newark), I figured I would have to start my 72 hour clock based on that and therefore my test within 48 hours Hours after this flight leave the USA
It couldn’t be a rapid antigen test, and on a Monday morning flight, this indicated that I had to do the test on Saturday morning. Since the labs that process test results are usually closed on Sundays, I risked not getting the results back in time for my flight.
My only safe bet was to join a medical concierge service that promised quick test processing through its own in-house laboratory. I’m now a member of One Medical ($ 199 later) and took a test three hours before my first flight.
Problem: Delta wanted to see this test result when I checked into Newark – 90 minutes after I took the test. While the Singapore government only required that I have proof of the test result in the [email protected] Pre-arrival app, cash-strapped airlines like Delta do not want boarding passenger liability, which could be denied upon arrival.
The testing service at Newark Airport was useless: four days later, PCR tests with results were offered. My flight to Detroit was on board in 45 minutes. If I missed this first leg there would be no way to make up for the lost time and make my flight from Singapore to Sydney. I would have to start over.
I called One Medical and emailed him. I asked Delta to show me the test results when we landed in Detroit, to no avail.
While I was working through my cancellation options, my test results arrived via app notification just six minutes before check-in closed. Fortunately, Delta accepted the screenshot test result as evidence. When I would learn to board my flight in Singapore two days later, some airlines insist on notarized paper results.
With just 40 minutes between flights in Detroit, my second flight started boarding before disembarking the first plane. I raced down the hall, was the last passenger on board and promptly found myself with a Covid bonus: every economy passenger had a full row of seats to himself, enough for a makeshift flat bed.
Escorts for everyone
The escorts arrived in Seoul: helpful at first, but ultimately creepy. I would think I’d have been on my own just to find a new escort that shows up out of nowhere asking why I took the escalator instead of the elevator to have my test results checked (because no one told me that I shouldn’t do that). or why I went to the bathroom instead of straight to my gate (because I wanted to visit the bathroom).
The escort system only worked because there was virtually no one at Incheon Airport. The airport (similar to Changi Airport in Singapore) normally handles around 200,000 passengers a day – far too many for even hundreds of escorts to keep control.
More notable were the Korean Air flight attendants, who worked in medical scrubs and wore clear, industrial-style goggles – on a mostly empty flight between two countries with no Covid, which consisted only of passengers with negative test results.
As I approached the immigration counters in Singapore, I got tired. Enough to take my hand off my carry-on suitcase at the top of an escalator and watch it fall, wiping out nearly three innocent travelers.
But that didn’t make me memorable for the Singapore border guards.
My transit papers confused them: they had never heard of it [email protected], the semi-quarantine overnight hotel that I booked. And so I was sent to a special room to wait as no fewer than nine officers were trying to figure out what to do with myself.
They weren’t the only ones who hadn’t heard from the facility: I spent 32 hours there without seeing a single other guest (or daylight). The staff said I had only booked the sixth meeting at the facility. Before I was allowed to leave the airport, I had to take a Covid-19 test at midnight and received a “declaration of residence” (punishable by up to six months in prison) asking me to stay at the airport [email protected] Room in which I was then accompanied until my negative test result was received.
When confirmed negatively, I was free to wander around and enjoy that Orwellian chic Mood, and take my desired business meeting in a prison style room, My guest is separated by a glass wall. I even relaxed with a fancy Korean foot mask that I bought in Seoul.
Instead of relaxing, I should have checked that I had the right format for test results to be presented at Changi Airport the next morning.
One of [email protected]Many rules are put in place to sit in the room like a child and wait for approval to check out. Maybe that’s what they meant by “unobtrusive, warm hospitality”. It took a while, and when I got to the airport later than planned, the Singapore Airlines staff wasn’t happy with the format of the results of my last midnight test.
To be fair, the results looked like I could have typed them up myself, so I was sent from the airport medical clinic for a more official version. But my escort and I returned to more bad news: the new doctor’s memo was still not good enough for the airline staff. When the clock ticked it looked like Newark again.
The difference this time was money: my business class ticket. I paid Singapore Airlines $ 3,600 to get on this plane – and it wasn’t the fancy food or free eye mask I wanted from them. What I really needed was them to sort out this test mess. So I stomped my feet, flashed my other negative test, and then a photo of my mom in the intensive care unit. I prevailed.
I arrived in Sydney eight hours later, but it would be 15 days before I could see my mother. (Surprise! The day you arrive in the Australian quarantine is day 0 and not day 1.)
Now I am sitting at a desk in my room on the 21st floor of the Amora Hotel in Sydney. I cannot open windows and the room is not cleaned during my 15 day stay, but on day 8 I have new sheets and towels on the door. There’s no microwave, but luckily I can order groceries online to complement the menu and buy supplies like dishes and detergent to wash items in the sink. I can open my door to pick up the three meals delivered daily, but I can never leave: the guard in the corridor and the armed forces below take care of it.
The foot mask I used in Singapore? It continues to remove layers of skin from my feet, leaving disgusting traces of dead skin peeling across the hotel room carpeting.
But when I sit in the bathtub in the afternoon I can catch direct sunlight and even see part of Sydney Harbor. A dedicated psychiatric nurse calls every day to check on me. “Is there something we can do today to help you?” She asks. “Let me train,” I reply, “even prisoners are trained.” She laughs and I laugh too because there is nothing else to do.
It’s bizarre to watch TV news: For three days, the state of Queensland hyperventilated over the contact tracking down a single case of Covid-19. After seven linked cases were found, 2.5 million people were suspended. It feels like overkill to be from New York, but also inconsiderate when maskless crowds line up for Covid tests without distancing themselves. But this is how Australia stays safe. Only six of Queensland’s 5.2 million residents have died of Covid, and Australia’s national death toll is 909. Compare that to 31,026 deaths in New York City alone.
And this is unfortunately how most international trips will look for the foreseeable future. When you have a lot of money there are short cuts. If you have the time, connections, and passes, there are ways to optimize the systems (Do you want to quarantine on a yacht in Thailand?). But for most people it will be too expensive or complicated to make the trip.
There are also some elements that are simply immovable, regardless of your circumstances.
A cousin of mine tragically discovered in January that there is no way to shorten Australia’s quarantine. After flying home from France and still stuck in his hotel, he couldn’t say goodbye to his dying brother, who passed away on his last day of quarantine.
Fortunately, my mother is well enough to call every day – her lung capacity is now 97 percent; Her voice was deep and strong for the first time in 20 years.
Only eight days left.